HOW TO DRY HERBS, FLOWERS, AND SEEDS
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When and how to harvest flowers
There are so many different herbs and flowers that can be dried, and of course they all have different recommended stages and methods for when they should be harvested. To make it simple for you here is a chart showing various flowers and herbs and their proper harvesting method. To see the chart please click on: How To Harvest Herbs and Flowers
To prepare flowers:
Gently shake flowers to remove any bugs Visual inspect flowers to remove any additional bugs Remove thorns as they tend to get sharper in their dried state Remove any damaged leaves or flowers
Selecting your drying location
Bundles of flowers can take anywhere from three days to three weeks to dry. So choosing your drying location is important. You need a location that is undisturbed, dry, well ventilated, be sure it has adequate air flow, and is out of direct sunlight or is dark.
It is important to keep your plants out of direct sunlight and in the dark so that your dried flowers will not fade and it also discourages them from further opening or development. If you want dried rose buds you do not want them to continue opening during the weeks they are drying.
A bedroom or other room out of the general traffic flow will work well. Walk-in closets or attics can also be used with success if ventilation and air-flow is encouraged with a fan.
Bathrooms and kitchens are not good choices as each have humidity added to the air through running water, showering and cooking activities.
Selecting a location in your home with a ceiling fan or place that you can plug in a floor fan will assist in the air flow around the plants and help with both the drying time and reduce the risk of mold or mildew on the plants.
If you live in a location with low relative humidity you may choose a covered outside location like a car port, covered patio or porch.
If you live in a very humid location or if you would like to speed up the drying process a room rated dehumidifier added to your space will assist in the process, cutting the drying time anywhere from a couple days to a week.
Proper position for drying flowers - hanging, flat, or upright?
For the best results in drying your flowers it is important that they be dried in the correct position or orientation. Here is a chart of all the popular dried flowers that shows which position they should be dried in. Click on: Flower Drying Positions
Bundling Flowers
Bundle a small amount of flowers together. The woodier the stems the more you can put in a single bundle as they dry faster than plants with fleshy stems. Take anywhere from six to 16 stalks and hold firmly towards the bottom of the stems, leaving an inch or so for you to place the rubber band. Then place rubber band over the stalks approximately one inch from the end of stalks until rubber band is nice and tight since stalks will shrink during the drying process.
Try to keep the flower ends of the bundles spread out for air flow and even drying.
If you do not have a location that is out of direct sunlight or if you do not have a location that you want to keep your window blinds closed for multiple weeks then there are tricks that can keep your flowers dark but not the rest of your room.
One trick is to use brown paper lunch bags. If you have a small number of bundles that you are drying you can use brown paper lunch sacks with a hole cut at the bottom of the bag for the stems to come through also cut slits in the bag to allow air circulation to go through the bag. Then after bundling your flowers (see below) simply place the bundle in the bag so that the stems are sticking through the hole that you placed in the bottom of the bag attach your flowers to your drying rack as normal and the bag will keep each bundle dark and out of direct light for the duration of the drying process
Another trick especially if you are drying a large number of bundles on a drying rack is to simply use an old thin cotton sheet, that you has ventilation slits cut into it to draped over the whole rack. You may also need to trim some material from the bottom of the sheet so that it is a few inches from the floor or ground so that air can still easily circulate. The sheet method works well if you are drying your plants on your covered porch or patio.
Hanging your bundles
Now that you have your flowers bundled and your drying location selected. Simply hang your bundles on your drying rack, rod or line. You can also use an old umbrella frame. If you are using clothes pins simple hang the flowers as you would an article of laundry, clipping the pin to the rubber band. If you are using paper clips bend the paper clips so they look like ornament hangers or s-hooks. For both paper clips and s-hooks, hook one end over the drying rack or line and hook the rubber band that is holding the flowers on the other end.
Checking on the dryness of your flowers
The majority of plants are simply checked by snapping of a small piece of the stalk on the bundled end. If the stalk snaps off cleanly, sounds and feels dry then your bundle is ready for placement in your flower arrangements and bouquets. Another method that can be used is puncturing the stem near the flower head with a sharp knife or finger nail. The stem should be dry and solid.For some flowers like cardoons or artichokes with fleshy heads a sharp knife should be inserted into the underside of the bloom. There should not be any softness remaining when fully dry.
Determining dryness is another area of the flower drying process that is both a science and an art. You will learn with experience when your plants are completely dry.
Now that your bundle of flowers is dry
Remove your rubber bands. You may choose to simply use your scissors and snip the rubber bands off.Gently separate each individual flower and look it over for any damage. Use your scissors to remove any parts that are broken, droopy or do not appear as you desire.Have fun creating your dried flower arrangements, wreaths and bouquets!
How To Dry Flowers
Dry Flowers For Seeds
-Wait until your flower forms its seeds. Flower seeds are formed and ready for harvesting after the flower has faded and died. If you cut your flowers and bring them inside before they have matured to seed stage you will not get any viable seeds. Wait until the petals on your flower have died and then look in the center of the flower or just under where the petals had been for the seeds. Your flowers should dry naturally on their own while still planted.
-Harvest the seeds from your dried flowers before they fall on the ground. Once seeds fall on the ground they begin to mold and can get wet causing them to become unviable seeds. Watch your flowers carefully; seeds that are ready are usually dried out.
-Gently shake the dried flower over a paper bag. Seeds that are ready to be harvested on a dried flower will sometimes fall off easily. Shaking the flower over a paper bag will cause the seeds to fall off and be easily caught so you won't have to search the ground for them.
-Remove seeds from the flowers that will not shake off. Some flowers will hold on tight to their seeds, but if you know they are ready for harvesting, gently remove the seeds from the dried flower.
-Spread seeds out on a paper towel in a dry place. Make sure there are no drafts in the area where you are giving your seeds their final drying or they might blow away! Your seeds should dry for up to a week before you store them.
-Put your seeds into envelopes or containers that are labeled with their names. You will not remember which seeds are for which plant by the time the next season comes around. Keep your seeds in a dry place so they will not mold or mildew. Also, do not keep your seeds in a place such as a garage where mice or other rodents might decide to snack on them!
-Harvest the seeds from your dried flowers before they fall on the ground. Once seeds fall on the ground they begin to mold and can get wet causing them to become unviable seeds. Watch your flowers carefully; seeds that are ready are usually dried out.
-Gently shake the dried flower over a paper bag. Seeds that are ready to be harvested on a dried flower will sometimes fall off easily. Shaking the flower over a paper bag will cause the seeds to fall off and be easily caught so you won't have to search the ground for them.
-Remove seeds from the flowers that will not shake off. Some flowers will hold on tight to their seeds, but if you know they are ready for harvesting, gently remove the seeds from the dried flower.
-Spread seeds out on a paper towel in a dry place. Make sure there are no drafts in the area where you are giving your seeds their final drying or they might blow away! Your seeds should dry for up to a week before you store them.
-Put your seeds into envelopes or containers that are labeled with their names. You will not remember which seeds are for which plant by the time the next season comes around. Keep your seeds in a dry place so they will not mold or mildew. Also, do not keep your seeds in a place such as a garage where mice or other rodents might decide to snack on them!
Box Method
-Line a box with fine, dry sand, borax or silica gel.
-Place the whole heads of the flowers face down in the box. Dahlias, roses and zinnias dry well using this method.
-Sift more sand or borax onto the flower heads until they are covered.
-Place the box in a warm, dry area for two weeks.
Air-Dry Method
-Pick flowers when their blossoms are half-open, and leave the flowers on their stems.
-Strip the lower leaves from the stems; don't remove the leaves closest to the flower on the stem.
-Gather 8 to 10 stems together, and tie them with string or secure them with rubber bands.
-Hang the bundle upside down in a well-ventilated area. After 10 days (in warm weather), the flowers should be dry. When drying multiple bundles of flowers, leave space between them to ensure thorough drying.
Drying Flowers With Kitty Litter
-Spread once inch of clay-based kitty litter in a shallow pan. Do not use clumping or crystal-based kitty litter. The cheapest clay-based litter is your best bet.
-Place your flowers on the bottom layer of kitty litter. Make sure that you don't overlap the flowers.
-Spread a second layer of kitty litter carefully over the flowers. The layer should be at least an inch thick, but be careful not to place too much kitty litter over the flowers. The flowers can be crushed by the weight of too much kitty litter.
-Place the flowers and kitty litter in a cool, dry place.
-Leave the flowers in the litter for two days. Check one bloom. If it is not dry, return the flower to the kitty litter. Check every other day until the flowers are dry. Drying can take as little as two days or as much as a week, depending on the flowers and the level of humidity in your environment.
-Spread once inch of clay-based kitty litter in a shallow pan. Do not use clumping or crystal-based kitty litter. The cheapest clay-based litter is your best bet.
-Place your flowers on the bottom layer of kitty litter. Make sure that you don't overlap the flowers.
-Spread a second layer of kitty litter carefully over the flowers. The layer should be at least an inch thick, but be careful not to place too much kitty litter over the flowers. The flowers can be crushed by the weight of too much kitty litter.
-Place the flowers and kitty litter in a cool, dry place.
-Leave the flowers in the litter for two days. Check one bloom. If it is not dry, return the flower to the kitty litter. Check every other day until the flowers are dry. Drying can take as little as two days or as much as a week, depending on the flowers and the level of humidity in your environment.
Drying Flowers With Silica Gel
-Cut several flowers for drying. Make sure that the flowers are free of dew, rain and insects. When cutting the flowers, leave only a 1-inch stem.
-Pour a 1 to 2-inch layer of silica gel crystals into a shallow container or tray.
-Arrange the flower over the layer of silica gel. Gently cover the flowers completely with more silica gel.
-Seal the container and leave it for three to four days.
-Open the container and remove the flowers very carefully. Brush off any remaining crystals with a paintbrush.
-Use flowers for wreaths, decorations and arrangements
-Pour a 1 to 2-inch layer of silica gel crystals into a shallow container or tray.
-Arrange the flower over the layer of silica gel. Gently cover the flowers completely with more silica gel.
-Seal the container and leave it for three to four days.
-Open the container and remove the flowers very carefully. Brush off any remaining crystals with a paintbrush.
-Use flowers for wreaths, decorations and arrangements
Drying Flowers With a Microwave
-Cut a variety of flowers for drying. Select flowers that are just beginning to open. Make sure the flowers are not wet and are free of insects.
-Put four cups of cat litter into a microwavable bowl.
-Push aside some of the cat litter and place in a single flower. Gently cover the flower completely with cat litter.
-Microwave for 2 to 3 minutes on high. Remove bowl from microwave and let cat litter cool.
-Remove flower and set aside on a clean dry surface. Brush away any remaining cat litter from the flower using a paint brush or basting brush.
-Repeat the process with the rest of the flowers, microwaving one at a time.
-Push aside some of the cat litter and place in a single flower. Gently cover the flower completely with cat litter.
-Microwave for 2 to 3 minutes on high. Remove bowl from microwave and let cat litter cool.
-Remove flower and set aside on a clean dry surface. Brush away any remaining cat litter from the flower using a paint brush or basting brush.
-Repeat the process with the rest of the flowers, microwaving one at a time.
How to Dry Herbs
Only dry herbs that retain an intense amount of flavor when dried, including sage, mints, rosemary, thyme, winter savory, bay leaves, oregano, marjoram and dill. Basil, chives, parsley and cilantro lose almost all of their flavor when dried, so don’t bother with them.
~Gather herbs in the morning after dew has dried. Using scissors, snip off 4- to 6-inch-long stems of each herb.
~Cut a 24-inch-long piece of sisal twine and make a loose slipknot at one end. Create bundles of each type of herb by gathering together a small bunch of stems. Slide the slipknot over the end of the stems. Cinch the knot down tightly, because the stems will shrink slightly as they dry.
~Hang the bunch upside down, indoors in a warm, dry location out of direct sunlight. The reason why you hang the bunch upside down is to keep the stems straight. If you dried the herbs upright the stems would wilt and collapse.
~Check on the herbs frequently by rubbing a few leaves between your fingers. As soon as they are crumbly dry, take the herbs down and prepare to store them in jars. Don’t leave the herbs hanging upside down for longer than you have to. They will gather a surprising amount of dust and pet hair!
~To store the herbs, strip the leaves off the stems, crumble them and place them in clear glass jars with a screw top. Keep the herbs in a cool, dark place and use them up within a year for the best flavor.
~Cut a 24-inch-long piece of sisal twine and make a loose slipknot at one end. Create bundles of each type of herb by gathering together a small bunch of stems. Slide the slipknot over the end of the stems. Cinch the knot down tightly, because the stems will shrink slightly as they dry.
~Hang the bunch upside down, indoors in a warm, dry location out of direct sunlight. The reason why you hang the bunch upside down is to keep the stems straight. If you dried the herbs upright the stems would wilt and collapse.
~Check on the herbs frequently by rubbing a few leaves between your fingers. As soon as they are crumbly dry, take the herbs down and prepare to store them in jars. Don’t leave the herbs hanging upside down for longer than you have to. They will gather a surprising amount of dust and pet hair!
~To store the herbs, strip the leaves off the stems, crumble them and place them in clear glass jars with a screw top. Keep the herbs in a cool, dark place and use them up within a year for the best flavor.
Drying Short-Stemmed Herbs and Flower Petals
-Choose an area that has good air circulation and does not receive direct sunlight.
-Place a clean window screen on top of bricks or blocks.
-Strip fresh leaves from stems and lay them on screen in one layer. For smaller leaves, place intact stems and leaves directly onto the screen.
-Turn leaves periodically to ensure that the entire surface of the leaf is exposed to the air and dries completely.
-Remove in 7 to 10 days - when leaves are dry.
-Store for later use in plastic bags, small jars or clean plastic film containers.
-Choose an area that has good air circulation and does not receive direct sunlight.
-Place a clean window screen on top of bricks or blocks.
-Strip fresh leaves from stems and lay them on screen in one layer. For smaller leaves, place intact stems and leaves directly onto the screen.
-Turn leaves periodically to ensure that the entire surface of the leaf is exposed to the air and dries completely.
-Remove in 7 to 10 days - when leaves are dry.
-Store for later use in plastic bags, small jars or clean plastic film containers.
Drying Long-Stemmed Leafy Herbs
-Harvest herbs in the early morning hours just after the dew has dried off the leaves.
-Remove dirt by gently rinsing cut stems in cool water.
-Shake off excess water.
-Gently pick off and remove dead or discolored leaves with your fingers.
-Gather stems into small bunches and tie cut ends together with string or rubber bands.
-Hang bunches upside down in a warm, dark, dust-free, well-ventilated area such as an attic or over the water heater.
-Take down bunches in two to three weeks - when herbs are dry and brittle.
-Strip leaves from stems.
-Store dried leaves in small jars, plastic bags or clean film containers.
Dry Herbs in the Microwave
-Purchase inexpensive, thin, white paper plates from the local grocery store. Select dessert plates over dinner plates, if possible.
-Harvest herbs from the garden. Wash them in cold water and allow the herbs to dry. Remove leaves from stems.
-Place a small amount of dry herb leaves on a paper plate, about the amount that fits on a paper dessert plate. Place two paper plates on top of each other if the herbs are too heavy for the paper plate. Place herbs in the microwave and set it on high for 60 seconds. Push "Start."
-Check herbs after 60 seconds. Microwave cooking times vary. See if the herbs are dry and easy to crumble. Microwave the herbs for another 30 seconds if they are not sufficiently dry. Repeat microwaving for 30-second time periods until herbs are dry and crumbly.
-Store the dry herbs in an airtight plastic bag. Squeeze the plastic bag to further crumble the dry herbs. Place the bag of herbs in a cool, dark storage area.
-Repeat Step 2 to Step 4 until you dry all of the harvested herbs. Frequently replace the paper plate you use to dry herbs with a fresh paper plate. The paper plate absorbs moisture from the herbs.
-Harvest herbs from the garden. Wash them in cold water and allow the herbs to dry. Remove leaves from stems.
-Place a small amount of dry herb leaves on a paper plate, about the amount that fits on a paper dessert plate. Place two paper plates on top of each other if the herbs are too heavy for the paper plate. Place herbs in the microwave and set it on high for 60 seconds. Push "Start."
-Check herbs after 60 seconds. Microwave cooking times vary. See if the herbs are dry and easy to crumble. Microwave the herbs for another 30 seconds if they are not sufficiently dry. Repeat microwaving for 30-second time periods until herbs are dry and crumbly.
-Store the dry herbs in an airtight plastic bag. Squeeze the plastic bag to further crumble the dry herbs. Place the bag of herbs in a cool, dark storage area.
-Repeat Step 2 to Step 4 until you dry all of the harvested herbs. Frequently replace the paper plate you use to dry herbs with a fresh paper plate. The paper plate absorbs moisture from the herbs.
Dry And Store Edible Seeds
-Before you pick any seedpod for drying, be sure the seedpod is completely ripe, it should snap off the plant easily into your hand when you remove it from the plant.
-Place the ripe seeds on a large flat surface such as a cookie sheet or a shoebox lid. Prepare your drying tray by lining it with wax or parchment paper.
-Spread the seeds out in a single layer, with no seeds touching.
-Place the tray of seeds in a warm dry place (not in the oven as even a low oven temperature is too high and will damage the seeds ability to re-sprout. To speed drying time, you can shine an art lamp or a gooseneck lamp on the seeds. Drying time will vary depending on the seed type, size and density. Once the seeds are dry, store them in an air-tight container and label with the seed name and date. A glass jar works best.
-Once the seeds are dry, store them in an air-tight container and label with the seed name and date. A glass jar works best or if you have them, you can use the small coin envelopes available at any office supply store.
-Place the ripe seeds on a large flat surface such as a cookie sheet or a shoebox lid. Prepare your drying tray by lining it with wax or parchment paper.
-Spread the seeds out in a single layer, with no seeds touching.
-Place the tray of seeds in a warm dry place (not in the oven as even a low oven temperature is too high and will damage the seeds ability to re-sprout. To speed drying time, you can shine an art lamp or a gooseneck lamp on the seeds. Drying time will vary depending on the seed type, size and density. Once the seeds are dry, store them in an air-tight container and label with the seed name and date. A glass jar works best.
-Once the seeds are dry, store them in an air-tight container and label with the seed name and date. A glass jar works best or if you have them, you can use the small coin envelopes available at any office supply store.
Harvest, Dry and Store Caraway
-Harvest young Caraway leaves lightly during the first growing season. Harvest after dew has dried off of the leaves but before the heat of day sets in.
-During the second year of growth, harvest Caraway leaves as needed. Caraway's cream colored flowers develop during it's second growing season and after they die off, the entire plant can be harvested. It has a long, edible taproot so dig the plant up rather than pulling it up. The taproot should be cooked like you would cook turnips or parsnips.
-To dry Caraway, cut the plant from the root and hang over something that will catch the seeds as they fall. You can also bundle the caraway stalk, slip a small paper bag over the bundle, and fasten with a rubber band. Cut ventilation slits into the bag. Hang upside down in a cool, dark place and check drying progress periodically. Caraway can also be dried on an herb drying rack. To dry the Caraway taproot, lay it on paper towels away for the light. Store in a cool, dark place once dried.
-Once Caraway seeds and leaves have dried, shake the seeds loose from the flower head. Store the leaves and seeds separately in dark colored, airtight containers. Caraway seeds can not be exposed to light.
-During the second year of growth, harvest Caraway leaves as needed. Caraway's cream colored flowers develop during it's second growing season and after they die off, the entire plant can be harvested. It has a long, edible taproot so dig the plant up rather than pulling it up. The taproot should be cooked like you would cook turnips or parsnips.
-To dry Caraway, cut the plant from the root and hang over something that will catch the seeds as they fall. You can also bundle the caraway stalk, slip a small paper bag over the bundle, and fasten with a rubber band. Cut ventilation slits into the bag. Hang upside down in a cool, dark place and check drying progress periodically. Caraway can also be dried on an herb drying rack. To dry the Caraway taproot, lay it on paper towels away for the light. Store in a cool, dark place once dried.
-Once Caraway seeds and leaves have dried, shake the seeds loose from the flower head. Store the leaves and seeds separately in dark colored, airtight containers. Caraway seeds can not be exposed to light.
Dry Pumpkin, Squash and Sunflower Seeds
FOR SUNFLOWERS
Cut off the fully developed heads during the warmest part of the day. Leave about a one foot stem. Hang heads upside down in a dray locations with good air circulation. Tie a piece of open mesh fabric or part of an old pair of panty hose around the head to catch the seeds as they fall out. Many will fall out while drying, others you'll have to brush out.
FOR PUMPKIN AND OTHER SQUASH
Wash and remove all fiber from the seeds. Pumpkin and winter squash seeds can be dried in a dehydrator or oven at 115 to 120 degrees for an hour or two. Stir the seeds frequently until they are crisp.
TO SEASON AND ROAST
Mix two cups of seeds in a bowl with a half teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, 1 teaspoon of salt and 1 1/2 tablespoons melted butter. Shake or stir to coat evenly then place the coated seeds in a shallow baking pan and roast in a hot oven 300 degrees for 10-15 minutes or until crisp. Stir the seeds frequently, assuring that all are dry. After roasting, let seeds set until cool then place them in a plastic bag or container. Eat in the next day or two or store in the refrigerator to keep fresh longer.
Store Pumpkin and Squash Seeds to replant in the Garden
-It is very satisfying to be able to save seeds from a variety of pumpkin or squash and plant them again next year for the same success. Growers of giant pumpkins for contests will save, buy, sell, and trade seeds of champions.
-Chose squash or pumpkins that are overripe. You may leave a few on the vine specifically for this. Bring them in before hard frost if possible, but let them fully ripen. Grow them to maturity unlike those you want on the table.
-Scoop the seeds out. Rinse and remove the strings or "goop". Rinse in cool water as too much heat can cause germination problems. As soon as possible put them between paper towels or other material to absorb all the moisture you can. Dry seeds store well. Wet ones rot or mold.
-Store them in a jar or air tight container. They should be kept in a darker, cool dry place. Heat will cause lack of germination and moisture will cause them to mold or rot.
-Next spring you can start them early indoors or in a greenhouse, or plant them directly when danger of frost is past in your area.
-Squash and pumpkin are an excellent source of vitamin A and many other vital elements to a healthy diet. Save what seeds you need to plant and use the rest to roast and eat now.
-Some Hybrid seeds and some crossbred seeds will not germinate. If you grew it from your last years seeds it should grow well. I have some pumpkins that I have grown 8 years in a row from my own seeds.
-Chose squash or pumpkins that are overripe. You may leave a few on the vine specifically for this. Bring them in before hard frost if possible, but let them fully ripen. Grow them to maturity unlike those you want on the table.
-Scoop the seeds out. Rinse and remove the strings or "goop". Rinse in cool water as too much heat can cause germination problems. As soon as possible put them between paper towels or other material to absorb all the moisture you can. Dry seeds store well. Wet ones rot or mold.
-Store them in a jar or air tight container. They should be kept in a darker, cool dry place. Heat will cause lack of germination and moisture will cause them to mold or rot.
-Next spring you can start them early indoors or in a greenhouse, or plant them directly when danger of frost is past in your area.
-Squash and pumpkin are an excellent source of vitamin A and many other vital elements to a healthy diet. Save what seeds you need to plant and use the rest to roast and eat now.
-Some Hybrid seeds and some crossbred seeds will not germinate. If you grew it from your last years seeds it should grow well. I have some pumpkins that I have grown 8 years in a row from my own seeds.
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